I’m from California. Meaning its pretty much implied that I know how to surf.
Well I don’t.
I’ve tried to learn multiple times, but my stubbornness and fear of being underwater stood in my way. Plus the water in California is freezing and the waves are slightly out of my range.
Thus, I made it my mission to finally stand up on a surfboard in Bali.
My friend Stephanie, who was only a little bit more experienced than I, and I rented a board for the day on Kuta Beach. She set out first because my nerves were getting the best of me and came back twenty minutes later after being ruled by the small waves, which didn’t give me much confidence.
I paddled out, trying to remember what I had been taught six years earlier. Well, it didn’t work because I completely wiped out over and over and over again. Discouraged, I waded out of the water only to find that one of the fins had come off! There is no way that it should have fallen off that fast!
I grabbed the guy that had sold us the board and brought him over to see the damage. I told him that it should not have fallen off after twenty minutes in the water and he just kept saying, “I see you. I see you. You in the water. You cannot stand up. You just fall. You cannot stand up!” I told him that I was aware I could not stand up, but he still repeated, “You in the water! You cannot stand up! You need lessons! I show you!”
I ignored him, he eventually walked away, and we were stuck with a board with only one fin, which didn’t really bother us because we couldn’t stand up anyways.
But we pressed on.
Actually, make that 85%, but I was ok with that.
I conquered the waves of Bali! Now onto the icy waters of the Pacific.